Home

Trees

Conifers

Leaf Trees

Advice

Our Forests

Almanac

Links

Soapbox

Guide to Trees & Shrubs

At left you will find a menu to what we have presently, or are planning to have. Everything is clumped into categories. At the start of each category is an overview, that describes general characteristics, and also the differences between the various sub groups.

There are many ways to divide trees into groups. I choose to divide them at the top by whether they have needles or have leaves. In landscaping the two classes are very different.

Prices

Most of our trees are priced by the foot or by the pot size. At the bottom of each page is an approximate inventory of what we have, and how we price it. Typically most deciduous trees are $4 per foot, most conifers $8 per foot. Shrubs and smaller trees are priced by the pot. If the tree is a fast grower, and is easy for me to raise at the farm, I charge less for it.

Most of my trees are midsize, in 2 to 7 gallon pots. These are large enough to miss with the lawn mower, and small enough to be reasonable to plant by hand without getting on your chiropractors permanant Christmas Card list. Usually all you need to plant my trees are a shovel and a wheel barrow.

Leaf Trees

Leaf trees produce shade in summer but let most of the sun through in winter. They produce medium shade -- usually lawns will grow under them without much problem. They tend to be open underneath, so that space is not lost. This means they can be planted closer to driveways and walk ways. They also tend to be wider for their height than a needle tree. And the widest part is near the top of the tree.

Generally you can adjust the shape by pruning more easily with a leaf tree than with a needle tree.

Leaf trees let the winter sun through.

Leaf trees produce a pile of leaves every fall. This can be a nuisance or a blessing, depending on the gardener.

Needle Trees

Needle trees are narrow for their height. They produce medium to dense shade. Spruce and fir produce such dense shade that little will grow under them.

Initially their branches go near or to the ground. For a good chunk of their lives, the widest part is at or near the bottom. Generally you don't want needle trees near a window, they block the view. You want them at least 10 feet from the driveway or any sidewalk or foundation.

On the south side of the house they block the winter sun. On the north and west side of the house they block the winter wind.

Our house is on the south side of a 50 foot wide band of spruce. This gives us some protection from the winter wind. There's a 20 foot strip that melts off three weeks before everything else along this band, and I have little problem there with zone 4 plants. (We are nominally zone 3b here.)

Anyway, browse the categories. I'd appreciate feedback. As usual, if I've made an error, please call it to my attention.